Frazier Blog

Woke up far too early and drug myself to the train station while floored by the early morning sun lighting up the tips of the Alps. Still had not left and was already thinking of how I could return.

Got off the mountain and bought some more train tickets in Interlaken and got on the train to Spiez. I snagged a compartment for myself. I was watching people board and suddenly I hear “hey!” and it is my buddies from the mountain hostel Piort and Michelle. It was great to see them again and nice to have someone to travel with. Piort was on his way to Venice and Michelle to Belgium. Piort and I shared the journey until Milan. We said goodbye to Michelle in Spiez and headed on. Our train was delayed and we were worried we would miss our next one but that was delayed too. This worried me as I now only would have 9 minutes to catch my train to Genoa. I met a nice Swiss pair on the train and learned more about the Swiss. Very jealous of their month of vacation a year.

As our high-speed train was not being very high-speed I asked a conductor if I would make my connection. “Forget about it” a lady suggested they might hold it. He replied that the Italians were not happy today, because they are on strike. Strike?!? Come on Europe.

We pulled into Milan about 40 minutes later and myself and about 5 other random backpackers sprinted to the info screen to try and find our next trains and make them. My high-speed to Genoa was no where to be found, but I did find a local leaving in 7 minutes and walked toward that platform.

The train moved slow and stopped constantly. After about two hours as I was writing this blog I started to get nervous. About 10 minutes later we pulled into Genoa station. As I got off the train I knew I now needed one to Riomaggiore or one of the other Cinque Terra towns. I tried to ask if this one was going there, the overall impression was no.  I ended up meeting an American man named Sean. As we walked to consult timetables he gave me a book he had just finished. I’ve been looking for one to read.

Based on the table it was an hour until the next train left. Since the Italians were on strike we went to the ticket office to confirm it was running; it was. Whew. Since we had an hour to kill Sean and I walked into the city a bit. I saw a gelato stand and my eyes were locked on target. I bought for the both of us and we sat at table and I learned more about Sean. I’ve been eating pretty healthy but I think Italy might be a problem. A good problem though!

 Interesting guy, he turned 40 and had told himself he would travel for a year and he did and so here he is. His next goal might be to walk across the USA. I asked if he had thought about biking instead.
While staying in Cinque his plan is to sleep in a campground accessed from an old railroad tunnel. Too local for my taste but I think he’ll have a blast. I told him to email me with how it went. I gave him my email and blog address. I’m also curious if he even stayed, might have been too touristy for him.

Once on the train it was slow and kept stopping. I felt like I was on an above ground subway. I was getting grouchy, I was tired and hungry. I just wanted to be there.  The time was not helping; I planned on being in Cinque around 2:30. It was now 5 and we still have an hour to go. My hostel also posed a problem as the email said the office closed at 7 twice and 6 once. I was defiantly hoping for 7 or that enough people would be late due to the strike forcing them to stay open.

Got in at six and loved the place already. I wanted to find my hostel and then go for a swim. Found the office, got my room and dropped off my stuff. Basically people rent or lease their apartments to this agency for the summer and they run them like a “hostel”. While there is no common room, none is needed as the entire city is a common room. Sharing the place with five other guys - nice. Got some tips and was off for my swim.

Ran into a family on the walk to town #2, Manarola. Started with me taking a photo for them and then stayed with them for a bit as I gleaned more info about the place.
Once I found the harbor Manarola I knew once I hit the water fighting though the train strike would be worth it. I was surrounded by the coolest looking houses, neat rocks and looking towards a cliff with the sun starting to get low in the sky. Where I jumped in I was little worried because it was unprotected from the sea and the waves were gently hitting the rock. Away I went. Hitting the water made the stress of train strike travel melt away. The sea is very salty so I floated on my back while enjoying the scenery.

Exiting felt like getting out of a wave pool.  I would not call it dangerous just more exciting. Somehow I started up conversation with a pair of Aussies. (love all of them) I think it was because I saw them laughing at the fat old man in a Speedo smoking a cigarette while fishing. His presence did not add to the beauty but certainly the character of the view.

Talked with Pat and Sam for awhile as the sun was starting to set. It was about to go out of view from our vantage point. So I asked if they wanted to join me a little ways up the trail for a better view.

We enjoyed a unique and stunning sunset while I learned about law school in Australia from them. The sun was setting beyond a distant hill with the sea in front of us and stretching into the horizon to the left. A few light white clouds provided for excellent colors. After the sun went out of our sight, Pat and Sam left. I stayed and enjoyed watching the distant clouds and sky slowly change color as the sun truly went into the sea. I found an open gate and went onto the rocks so it was just me, rock and the sea. Perfect. Praised god for his beauty and then left for a shower and food. Sorry no photos.  I took a break from my camera this night.

As I walked back I planed my evening; shower, food and then a much needed early night.

Found a nice restaurant with a TV so I could catch the end of the WC game. Love how cheap a glass of wine is. Had the local dish of mussels to start and then the daily special of ravioli.  Very good.
Got some gelato for dessert. Could I survive on just gelato for the next week?

As I was eating I decided to be social and went and said hi to a group of people about my age. I realized many days ago and pretty much any backpacker is ready to meet new people. I could not understand it until I experienced it.

It was a mix of girls and guys and one girl had a large bandage on her chin. I could not help asking how it happened. She explained she jumped in to rescue a drowning boy and hit her chin as she lifted him out. I called BS and she started laughing. She was close to pulling it off; I suggested she add a longer back story to make to more believable. I dug myself a hole with her making some silly comment about the attractiveness of the injury. I dug myself out by using a clever line about assigning a million hot points to start.

Some how I became part of a conversation with two different girls as the previous pack headed out. I was quickly realizing it was not going to be an early night. Turns out Dev and Angela are both in graduate acting school. I’m not sure what prompted it but they began demonstrating all the dialects they had learned in school. After hearing Irish, Scottish, redneck, New Yorker, British and more my head spun in amazement. Yet another magical moment for the day. I am worried for the day I don’t have one.

Soon more joined our group and after having a crêpe we ended up at the harbor lit by moonlight. The full moon (I believe) was reflecting off the water creating a line of light leading out to sea that happened to fall between two sets of buoy lights. That sight alone made up for the lack of sleep.

We soon had collected what we called the United Nations. Australia, New Zealand, England, USA, Ireland and even the Bahamas were represented. Again enlightening cultural discussions. Watching the international attempts at flirting also provided for some entertainment. Some countries were clearly doing better than others.

After enjoying the moonlit sea view some more it was time for bed. Beach tomorrow.

Love the sea,
Paul