Frazier Blog

Woke up to an overcast city but a great view of the local architecture.
Took my time packing up and decided I would bite the bullet and send
some stuff home. Of course this was not an easy feat. I found a box
from a local store and headed to the post office. After struggling to
find it I was informed it would cost 18 Euro, well worth losing the
weight but he had no tape to close the box. After checking 2 stores in
vain, I tried the police/public safety office; they happily taped up
the box. Sadly I had added more stuff which put the price to 40 Euro.
So I had to open back up my box and reuse the tape to get the price
back to 18 Euro.

Now it was time to head to the beach. I decided I’d do the hike but
with how late the trains run in this city I did wanted to leave my pack
at the station I was leaving from. I hiked from town 1-2 with all my
stuff; I’m traveling with one large ski pack a small backpack and my
DSLR camera, and have the photo to prove it. A funny sight. After
taking all the great photos I headed to the station to go to town four
for the sights and beach. Train I wanted was 10 minutes late. Now 25,
30, 45. Lucky they did this within 10 minutes so I knew I had 35
minutes I could use. I headed back to town 2 got a sandwich of sorts
and a cheap bottle of wine. I had a nice picnic at the station while
waiting for the train. Finally came 40 minutes late.

Once at town 4 it was time to store my bag. Approached the ticket
counter with cash in hand only to be told NO. What? “it’s a security
issue.” before I could counter with,” but they do it at the town 1
station” he informed me “you can store it at the town one station.”
That did not help me at all.

I walked down the street to find a hostel or hotel that would let me.
Problem being there are not really hotels in Cinque Terra. There are
places with tiny lobbies that give keys to rooms. After I ended up at
the harbor, which looked beautiful and begging to be swam in, I headed
back up the street to get away from the main drag. I was excited to
find a pension and inquired about my bag. “No it’s a liability, try
the police station.” I did, they recommended the train station.

Annoyed and sick of lugging my bag around I thought fine I’ll just use
it as a chair at the beach. Walking that way I saw a shop that looked
decently big by Cinque Terra standards and felt an urge to try there. I
asked and she looked confused. Then used hand motions to explain, you
store bag I’ll give you 2 Euro I come back I give you 2 more Euro. She
understood and proceeded to say no, to the money. She gladly took my
bag and let me place it in the corner of my store. Perfect. After much
thanking I left.

Hiked a little past town four. Can’t wait to put up photos. So pretty!
Caught a view of the beach and could not wait to get in the water.

Found a cafe/bar with a restroom, ordered a .90 Euro coffee and
changed in their restroom and hit the beach.

Beach is awesome. Started reading the book given to me by Sean, “High
Fidelity”. It’s alright; guy just needs to enjoy life a bit more.
Funny though.

I wanted to get in the water but did not want to just leave my daypack
chilling. I started scoping out people I could ask to watch it. A
group of Americans looked good but then I spotted two friendly girls
my age. Asked them to watch and they were happy too.

The swim was amazing! Water felt great and I love how easily you
float. I swam out to the rocks/bay pier and enjoyed a magnificent view
of the city from the water.

When I returned my bag was exactly where I left it. Started talking to
the two girls Joy and Suzanne. Joy left quickly to meet friends and I
found out Suzanne is on a 1.5 year trip and is from Australia. I have
yet to meet an Aussie guy or girl that I don’t like.

She claims she is 30 I still don’t buy it, I thought 25 max. We chatted
for awhile and I watched her stuff while she went to get water. Then
it was time for me to leave to start my journey to Florence. I did not
have a pen so I just gave her my email and blog address hopefully I’ll
get her contact info they way. I’d love to hear what she thinks of
traveling in the Middle East.

When I got back to the shop I asked the shop keeper what her favorite kind
of gelato was. She refused so I bought a little souvenir from her shop.

I realized I forgot my water bottle in the bathroom when I had changed
so I went back for it. As I filled it up at the public water fountain
I heard “Paul”. Always a great sign in a random place. It was my
friend Suzie from the beach with gelato. Magical timing of 1 of the 2. She
raved about this chocolate chili gelato. We had time before the train so
naturally I had to get some. Delicious. Rich lush chocolate with a nice
spice aftertaste which I paired with a juicy strawberry. Only because
I forgot my water bottle did I run into her.

The train was packed. Nice chatting with Suzanne while we traveled,
said goodbye to her at Riomaggiore as I continued on to Spiez to
catch a train to Pisa and then Florence. As usual train was late so I
had one minute to make my connection. I ran and stopped short of
pushing anyone over, but bumped quite a few people. I had to make it
threw a packed trainful of people leaving. Got on the train as it was
scheduled to leave but it also was 10 minutes late.

Got into Pisa had 20 minutes before next train. As I’m getting ready
to board I overhear two girls make an envious comment about my bottle
of wine. Naturally I say hi and end up traveling with them. We snuck, as
many others did, into first class and the conductor did not care as it
was a regional train. A little bit more spacious. Same seats as 2nd class
just 1 fewer in a row.

Got into Florence and I did not know where I was going. I knew it was
by the Duomo. Luckily the girls knew so I followed them and asked
police for the street I was looking for.

Great hostel I could tell from the start. It is called Academia. You can see the
Duomo from the door. It came highly reviewed and recommended. Got
settled and than heard about a festival going on tonight. Magical
timing moment #2. I did not know about the music fest in Paris or here
but just happened to show up on the right night. Sweet.

Headed across the river and was instantly greeted by music. Great time
down there. I’ll post some videos soon. After watching a magic show
and various bands I was exhausted and time for bed. Great introduction
to the city. It also was a great way to see the local culture as it
was 90-95% Italians who were out. I felt much safer here than I did in
Paris under the tower on the 21st. Much more light.

In Florence,
Paul

Woke up far too early and drug myself to the train station while floored by the early morning sun lighting up the tips of the Alps. Still had not left and was already thinking of how I could return.

Got off the mountain and bought some more train tickets in Interlaken and got on the train to Spiez. I snagged a compartment for myself. I was watching people board and suddenly I hear “hey!” and it is my buddies from the mountain hostel Piort and Michelle. It was great to see them again and nice to have someone to travel with. Piort was on his way to Venice and Michelle to Belgium. Piort and I shared the journey until Milan. We said goodbye to Michelle in Spiez and headed on. Our train was delayed and we were worried we would miss our next one but that was delayed too. This worried me as I now only would have 9 minutes to catch my train to Genoa. I met a nice Swiss pair on the train and learned more about the Swiss. Very jealous of their month of vacation a year.

As our high-speed train was not being very high-speed I asked a conductor if I would make my connection. “Forget about it” a lady suggested they might hold it. He replied that the Italians were not happy today, because they are on strike. Strike?!? Come on Europe.

We pulled into Milan about 40 minutes later and myself and about 5 other random backpackers sprinted to the info screen to try and find our next trains and make them. My high-speed to Genoa was no where to be found, but I did find a local leaving in 7 minutes and walked toward that platform.

The train moved slow and stopped constantly. After about two hours as I was writing this blog I started to get nervous. About 10 minutes later we pulled into Genoa station. As I got off the train I knew I now needed one to Riomaggiore or one of the other Cinque Terra towns. I tried to ask if this one was going there, the overall impression was no.  I ended up meeting an American man named Sean. As we walked to consult timetables he gave me a book he had just finished. I’ve been looking for one to read.

Based on the table it was an hour until the next train left. Since the Italians were on strike we went to the ticket office to confirm it was running; it was. Whew. Since we had an hour to kill Sean and I walked into the city a bit. I saw a gelato stand and my eyes were locked on target. I bought for the both of us and we sat at table and I learned more about Sean. I’ve been eating pretty healthy but I think Italy might be a problem. A good problem though!

 Interesting guy, he turned 40 and had told himself he would travel for a year and he did and so here he is. His next goal might be to walk across the USA. I asked if he had thought about biking instead.
While staying in Cinque his plan is to sleep in a campground accessed from an old railroad tunnel. Too local for my taste but I think he’ll have a blast. I told him to email me with how it went. I gave him my email and blog address. I’m also curious if he even stayed, might have been too touristy for him.

Once on the train it was slow and kept stopping. I felt like I was on an above ground subway. I was getting grouchy, I was tired and hungry. I just wanted to be there.  The time was not helping; I planned on being in Cinque around 2:30. It was now 5 and we still have an hour to go. My hostel also posed a problem as the email said the office closed at 7 twice and 6 once. I was defiantly hoping for 7 or that enough people would be late due to the strike forcing them to stay open.

Got in at six and loved the place already. I wanted to find my hostel and then go for a swim. Found the office, got my room and dropped off my stuff. Basically people rent or lease their apartments to this agency for the summer and they run them like a “hostel”. While there is no common room, none is needed as the entire city is a common room. Sharing the place with five other guys - nice. Got some tips and was off for my swim.

Ran into a family on the walk to town #2, Manarola. Started with me taking a photo for them and then stayed with them for a bit as I gleaned more info about the place.
Once I found the harbor Manarola I knew once I hit the water fighting though the train strike would be worth it. I was surrounded by the coolest looking houses, neat rocks and looking towards a cliff with the sun starting to get low in the sky. Where I jumped in I was little worried because it was unprotected from the sea and the waves were gently hitting the rock. Away I went. Hitting the water made the stress of train strike travel melt away. The sea is very salty so I floated on my back while enjoying the scenery.

Exiting felt like getting out of a wave pool.  I would not call it dangerous just more exciting. Somehow I started up conversation with a pair of Aussies. (love all of them) I think it was because I saw them laughing at the fat old man in a Speedo smoking a cigarette while fishing. His presence did not add to the beauty but certainly the character of the view.

Talked with Pat and Sam for awhile as the sun was starting to set. It was about to go out of view from our vantage point. So I asked if they wanted to join me a little ways up the trail for a better view.

We enjoyed a unique and stunning sunset while I learned about law school in Australia from them. The sun was setting beyond a distant hill with the sea in front of us and stretching into the horizon to the left. A few light white clouds provided for excellent colors. After the sun went out of our sight, Pat and Sam left. I stayed and enjoyed watching the distant clouds and sky slowly change color as the sun truly went into the sea. I found an open gate and went onto the rocks so it was just me, rock and the sea. Perfect. Praised god for his beauty and then left for a shower and food. Sorry no photos.  I took a break from my camera this night.

As I walked back I planed my evening; shower, food and then a much needed early night.

Found a nice restaurant with a TV so I could catch the end of the WC game. Love how cheap a glass of wine is. Had the local dish of mussels to start and then the daily special of ravioli.  Very good.
Got some gelato for dessert. Could I survive on just gelato for the next week?

As I was eating I decided to be social and went and said hi to a group of people about my age. I realized many days ago and pretty much any backpacker is ready to meet new people. I could not understand it until I experienced it.

It was a mix of girls and guys and one girl had a large bandage on her chin. I could not help asking how it happened. She explained she jumped in to rescue a drowning boy and hit her chin as she lifted him out. I called BS and she started laughing. She was close to pulling it off; I suggested she add a longer back story to make to more believable. I dug myself a hole with her making some silly comment about the attractiveness of the injury. I dug myself out by using a clever line about assigning a million hot points to start.

Some how I became part of a conversation with two different girls as the previous pack headed out. I was quickly realizing it was not going to be an early night. Turns out Dev and Angela are both in graduate acting school. I’m not sure what prompted it but they began demonstrating all the dialects they had learned in school. After hearing Irish, Scottish, redneck, New Yorker, British and more my head spun in amazement. Yet another magical moment for the day. I am worried for the day I don’t have one.

Soon more joined our group and after having a crêpe we ended up at the harbor lit by moonlight. The full moon (I believe) was reflecting off the water creating a line of light leading out to sea that happened to fall between two sets of buoy lights. That sight alone made up for the lack of sleep.

We soon had collected what we called the United Nations. Australia, New Zealand, England, USA, Ireland and even the Bahamas were represented. Again enlightening cultural discussions. Watching the international attempts at flirting also provided for some entertainment. Some countries were clearly doing better than others.

After enjoying the moonlit sea view some more it was time for bed. Beach tomorrow.

Love the sea,
Paul

I woke up to sun drenched snow caped mountains. I found the owner,
Petra and told her what a great place she has. Earlier that morning,
which I did not know, she had a girl tell her it was a bad place and
asked for her money back. Petra than kissed me on the cheek. I told
her not to worry about the girl as now someone else can stay another
night. I tried to stay too and Petra even offered to call my other hostel before
she realized she was out of rooms. She than said I could sleep with
her, but “no action”. Very funny morning exchange. I got ready to leave and headed to the cable car station.

Grabbed a sticker on my way out and said aloud, “this is going on my
car.” Petra heard this and said, “Let me get you a better one”. After
handing me the sticker she than said I have something else for you, and she came back
she came back with a t-shirt. It has the hostel name and location on
the front and on the back it says “If heaven is not what it is
cracked up to be take me back to Gimmelwald”. Love it! Gave her a hug and left. Got to
the station and had to run back as I had left my phone charging on the computer. I really
did not want to leave this place.

After taking multiple train, busses and cable cars I was at the
location of my hike. What a view! First a minor detour to blank, Rick
is right again, the view was well worth the work and 20 minutes. Then
it was on to Kleine Scheidegg where I would catch the train to the top
of Europe.

The views on this hike truly were breathtaking. I was very moved. It
was so beautiful I almost wanted to cry. The mountains, snow, and
flowers. The best word is awestruck. I felt the power of Gods beauty
in this place! Sung a little worship music in my head and then
listened to some Chris Tomlin before going back to just enjoying the
sounds of the Swiss Alps. It was an easy beautiful trail and I had a
blast doing it. I had a permanent grin on my face and everyone else I passed seemed to have
one glued on their faces also.
My camera was low on juice which was a blessing because it made me take fewer photos.
Can’t wait to post them.

I stopped about 45 minutes in and had this as my view during my
picnic. I no longer feel bad about making anyone jealous. That
jealousy will just lead to motivation to come back to this amazing
place with me. Used my new Swiss army knife to cut my baguette and
made a little sandwich. Then back on the trail.

Little caches of snow create small streams and puddles to cross which
just added the fun. Towards the end, the water from a waterfall flows
across the path. I enjoyed watching an elderly couple have a snowball
fight, very cute.

I finished the hike and got my ticket for the Jungfraujoch. As the
train arrived I fought my way past huge tour groups, they’re back, and
scored a coveted window seat. The views were great until we went into
a long tunnel which I was not expecting. After watching the video on the
train it makes sense that you can’t just go on top of these mountains.

We arrived at the top and I found my way outside. Walking towards the
outside bar as I was adjusting to the breathtaking view and bright sun
I hear “pssshpop” And look over to the alpine bar to see the
bartender popping bottles at 11,300ft. If the glass had cost less than 14
I would have had some.

Again I’m not sure it is worth the words to try and describe the view.
As my Austrian friend said “there is just something about the
character of these mountains.” they are imposing and awe inspiring.
At the top there were 5ish peaks around. I was too busy enjoying to count.
After seeing the small summer ski area I decided to pass and
instead moved up my timetable for returning to 6 months and ski season.

I then went up 100m higher in the observation deck. Once again the
sights took my breath away. In between two walls of imposing
mountains lies the longest glacier in Europe. It appears as a smooth
never ending river of snow. I felt a little sick and a slight
headache. I was not sure if I was tired, dehydrated, altitude sick or
a mixture of the three. Therefore I got a coffee and water and soon
felt much better. I would have had another water, but 5 Francs was a
little steep for me.

Even though I was ready to go, I decided to just chill at the top
looking out a window writing post cards. What a great way to spend an
hour. I’d write than gaze, write than gaze and repeat. If you want a
postcard from me and I don’t have your address send it to me.

I caught the last train down and had a great conversation with a man
originally from Mexico and now living in Switzerland.

I arrived in my new town of Grimelwald, the name is so
similar to Gimmelwald but the towns have stark differences. While both
have an impressive view of the Alps, Grimelwald was disappointingly
developed. This was very apparent after spending a night in Gimmelwald and a day in nature.
As I walked towards my hostel it became less developed and I reminded myself this would be a good night to
catch up on sleep and I was happy again.
Upon checking in I found a clean, nice, large hostel. I was
told I could get into the local pool complex but it closed 45 and the last
entrance was in 15 minutes. A swim sounded so good! I hurried to my room, grabbed
my suit and started a jog towards the pool. I made it with one minute to spare.

I headed straight for the waterslide. It was awesome it with lights
inside of it. First little circles on the bottom and then bands going
all the way around. It felt as if you were taking off into a wormhole.
Very twilight zone like. Hit the pool and the water felt very good! It was
was nice to do some exercise other than walking.

Hostel had excellent showers, so much pressure I thought it was going
to take a layer of skin off. If it was not for the lack of a hostel
environment I would have said it was a great one. Back at the hostel I
got ready to leave in the morning at 6:30. Did some blogging and passed
out. Tomorrow I am on my way to my 4th country and my 4th stop. Hello
Italy and Cinque Terra.

Still dreaming,

Paul

Woke up and rushed to the train station after I found out it took 30 minutes longer to get there than I anticpaited. Long story short, I don’t like the French rail system. Barley made my train and still could not use my pass. There were 4 seats for every person the comductor agreeded and wrote a note on my ticket and told me to send it in to try and get a refund. Nice how fast the trains go though.

Soon I was on a local trains and there were even less people. Beautiful train ride. Funny going to bathroom directly on the tracks. Met a nice man named Daniel filled me in on the area. Got to Bern and went and asked if I needed a ticket for interlaken, nope just get on the train.

The train ride from Paris to interlaken is beautiful and gets better with each passing mile. Soon the mountains came into view, I felt myself losing my breath. The natural beauty overwhellemed my senses.

My intenuaray is to go to gimmelwald for a night, hike then go to the jumgfraujouch (highest train station in Europe, viewing platform at 11,300ft), stay a night in grindelwald and then off to cinque Terra, Italy.

Upon arrival in interlaken rick steves had told me there was a great travel center. I went to get my train ticket to cinque Terra, Salzberg and frankfurt. While the French had almost ruined my image of backpacking via train the Swiss swooped in for the save. Both agents I worked with were amazing. Making jokes and very helpful, I bought my tickets and was on my way up the mountain.

To get to the mountain hostel I had to take a train, bus and finaly a cable car. The mountains are so big and close. Amazing.

Not only are they huge, snow capped and close but feature waterfalls. I felt like I was in a dream and that this all could not be real.

The hostel was a short walk ( 30 seconds) I could already tell I was going to regret only staying one night. The staff was so friendly. I got my room set down my pack and was back outside in 2 minutes. I got a beer and fresh homemade pastry and picked a table to sit at.

Little did I know yet another magical moment was about to happen. As I sat enjoying my amazing food and gawking at the mountains, so close it felt like I could touch them I said hello to the 3 girls at the table. I quickly found out they were from Oregon and go to UofO! But wait it gets better. I found out Steph was a junior in the journalism school. I decided to play my favorite game when I meet people from UofO that are in the J-school, Greek system or die-hard sports fans; do you know Kate Flowers?

The reaction was perfect. “Yes! Wait….you’re that Paul! This is blowing my mind” my mind was blown as well as I took a second look at Steph and once she took her sunglasses off it was clear her and i had seen each other mutliple times before. Crazy! What are the odds? The one day I’m there, in the middle of the Swiss alps. We gave Kate a call later and when I quickly passed the phone to Steph I could hear Kate’s loud suprised reaction. Awesome.

I kept meeting so many great people. Piort and Michelle, many texans, an old British dude and a bunch of German students.

I joined the girls for a quick walk to the local cheese maker. I selected a 2008 and it was delicous. Again the walk though the town did not feel real. This is a place you think only exists in movies.

I had an amazing pizza cooked by the host. So good. We then sat outside and talked and regualry commented on how unreal our surroings are. Pictures do not begin to do it justice.

As night fell more clouds rolled it but the forecast called for it to be clear tomorrow. It stayed warm and light for a long time and we enjoyed watching the colors change on the nearby mountains. Shorty after it got dark the moon found a way though the clouds slighly lighting the mountains.

As we headed inside we were greated by two guitars, one of whom was playing a hermonica as well. Our French Canadian friend soon brought out a snack plate complete with two local cheese, salomi and olive bread. His friend had been learning the drums somewhere in Europe and another person over heard this and soon a drum was in his hands. This time it was the guitarists turn to make a comment about how unreal this all was. I can’t wait to return to this place and you are all invited. Please please come.

There was a little drama as 90% of the hostel was still up at midnight when “quiet” hours start. At around 12:30 some lady came down and asked us to be quiet, our table was prety quiet. But the Germans playing jenga was another story. The guitar did a ssssh and in a mocking tone eveveryone else joined in. It worked thou, for about a minute and a half. The rest of the night about every 7 minutes someone would start a sssh and everyone would join in. Pretty funny. Did not stop the lady from coming down again. Since we were closest to the stoats we caught her wrath.

I went to bed around 130. With an alarm set for
8:30.

Loving travel,

Paul

Woke up to sun and was excited for a day at Versailles. Navigated my way though the metro and was quickly on the RER train to Versailles. Public transpiration here blows my mind. How can they do it so well and the us so poorly. I have never heard anyone say o you need a taxi to get there they always just say which train to take.

I worked on day 5’s blog on the train ride and watched as the train whisked us away from the Paris city center. Surprisingly, the entire train got off at Versailles.

Made the walk to the palace and was in awe as the gold gates came into view. The bright sun made all the gold glisten. Spectacular.

The palace loomed ahead as an equally intimidating ticket line double and triple backed on itself. However, with the museum pass i could head right to the security checkpoint. While annoying these almost pointless checkpoints are angels compared to TSA shoes and belts can stay as you pass through.

The crowd inside the palace was large and I hit the bathroom before getting trapped in the sea of tourists. I’m learning my lesson. Again I did not have to wait in line, not the museum pass this time but my gender.

There was a huge line at the information desk for maps where I watched her circle things and talk with each person. I went for the kill. Went to the side of the counter and pointed at a map, she glared and reluctantly handed me one after glaring at me and pointing at the line. Why they don’t just have them on a stand is beyond me. And I was off on my Rick steves audio tour. Free downloads by the way on iTunes.

I flew though the palace as it was packed, beautiful outside and I was still on museum overload. I did learn some interesting history from rick and got to stand in the rooms where it took place.

Then it was time for the gardens, they truly do look like they go on forever! I can’t even try and describe them. It was a Tuesday so they had the fountains turned on. While it was amazing even without the water on, seeing the gardens and fountains with the water running was spectacular. Before the water turned on at 230, I strolled through part of the gardens and then took a nap while listening to classical music by the grand canel. Life is rough.

I think I could write a sort novel about today and perhaps an indie screenplay.

*sorry if their are errors or holes, i know its long but it was amazing, now back outside in the alps*

First stop was Norte Dame. With one change on the Metro I was there in 10 minutes, they really have a good system here. The church is already an impressive sight from the outside. I was following the free audio tour from Rick Steves of the historic Paris walk (do I get a check for product placement yet Rick?). The line for the top was long but I could just walk inside. Within 3 steps I realized gigantic size of this church. Inside is dimly lit with the majority of the lighting coming from the beautiful stain glass. I made a donation and lit a candle. The audio tour provided very interesting background, at one point the French people seized the church and made it a monument to the knowledge of man. I finished touring around and then sat down to pray for a moment.

Back outside i was directed to the deportation memorial, which was closed today. The commentary still provided a moment to reflect on the loss of life French Jews suffered.

After being shown the oldest Living thing in Paris, a tree from 1300ish I paused for “un cafe.” moments like these make me think I am in a dream I was sitting outside in sunlight sipping on coffee, people watching, while
Sitting 100 yards from the Notre Dame. Unreal.

As my walk continued I entered the narrow streets of Paris from the medieval period. The charm only grew as the streets became smaller. St.Severin is cool as the church almost hangs out into the street. All of the shops, cafes and restaurants give the area a great feel.

I toured the Latin quarter and Rick is right about a large contingent of Greek restaurants. They offer cheap food and I could not resist as I watched them shave meat off. I bought a pita 4.50 and continued my tour.

My next stop was Sainte-chapelle. There was a very long line, after I got to the back I noticed a ruckus upfront. An employee was cutting off the line with a rope. I approached and saw a “ferme” sign which would last for the next hour. I was not going to stand in line for an hour to wait in line. Before I left I flashed my museum pass and he opened the rope. Others were doing the same thing while people behind the rope became increasing angry and confused. After hand gestures and a few common words I understood from the worker that ticket office was closed but security open. So on accident I picked the perfect time, again get the pass. While in line I met a nice old
couple from Cali, it was fun talking to them despite him being a USC alum, cheaters. After ending up infront of the place of justice on accident I made my way back to the church. What a cool building, while the down stairs was impressive it was small compared to Notre Dame. I was beginning to wonder why it was such a popular spot and then I saw the stairs. I emerged from a dimly lit stair case and was greeted by the warm glowing light coming from a wall of magnificent stained glass. Now I understood. The inside is virtually empty drawing your attention to the walls of glass. Each frame depicts a story from the bible. Sadly I could not see glass over the alter as they are doing a huge restoration project. I sat and enjoyed the glass, admired the details and tried to make out some of the biblical stories.

I had not see a band all day and thought that the girls had led me astray. O well I was having a great day even without the music.

Next I toured the prison where the French revolutionaries kept their prisoners before chopping off their heads. I saw the cell of Marie Antoinette . A interesting piece of history.

My tour continued and soon I was in this tiny little pocket park in the middle of Paris, surrounded by little cafes. I realized I was beginning to fall in love. As my tour wrapped up I was left infront of the bridge. Two police cars approached as I arrived, they began running down stairs toward the river. I could not resist. They led me to yet another hidden park. It extends out from the bridge punt buff. The police were at the end where a boat had run aground. There were 4 boats a diver and 6 more looking on from land. A very entertaining scene. I asked a couple what was going on, they had an accent but spoke English. We kept talking and I found out they were from the Netherlands. Soon the police freed the boat, it looked ok besides the slight list to one side. I found out I was talking with John and Nicole, it was a great convo and I learned some cultural things, such as tipping from true Europeans. Soon a band began to play in the park near us. Sitting by the river listening to music and talking was awesome.

Nicole brought up her trip to America, her story was very funny. She talked about how everything is so big in America. After 5 days in Europe I can see where she is coming from. “the parking spaces are so big, the cars are big, the stores have 50 different kinds of premade kids lunches! Why do they need so many? And then you go to a restaurant and they give you a huge soda, and I was half way done and they came back a refilled it. I had worked hard to get it lower and then I had to start over.” she went on for awhile in a very entertaining way. I noticed people having a picnic with wine, bread and cheese and decided I would go try and rent a bike, ride around the Paris core and the have my picnic. I said goodbye and headed towards where I saw the bike rental.

I checked my guidebook and decided to visit the Cluny museum. I’m glad I did while I blew though most of it the stain glass displays were very impressive. It was neat to stand 1 foot away and see all the detail in the glass. I can’t believe how much detail they are able to capture. There was even toenails present on some.

Next I tried to rent a bike, and failed. Even with the help of a local I could not get the machine to work. My conclusion is that it would not take my card because US cards don’t have the smart chip that euro cards do. O well.

As I was walking to the market the bands began to play. They seemed to pop out of nowhere and were very good. The girls were right after all. I stood and watched a band as many watched and some danced. I started to take a video and noticed a small dessert store as I did. I got a awesome little chocolate pastry.

I found a market. Picked up some cheap wine, cheese. a baguette and an apple for later. I almost forgot the bottle opener. As I walked towards the bridge I got to listen to more bands. I knew if my picnic went as well as I imagined I would be in love with Paris.

I got back to the spot and began to pull out my food when I noticed a group of people my age and that they were speaking English. I began to wonder if I should try and join them, i figured why not. I asked if they minded and the circle opened for me. What happened next while it may sound cliche, was amazing. I added my cheese to the center and we drank wine, ate cheese and bread and talked. I found out there were two groups of people, one of French students and the other a group of Australian international students. I have met more Aussies than any other group this trip. We even talked about that and they joked that since they are far away they feel like they need to get out.

The conversation was far-reaching. Everything from school, travel, debate ( one of the guys is the world collegiate debate champion) even the floating of the yuan. As we kept talking the evening only got prettier as the sun was setting I would not have wanted to be anywhere else in Paris than besides the river. The bridges and buildings began to have a subtle glow to them. The big tourist boats began to increase and while waving at a passing boat I noticed some were even snapping photos of this perfect picnic spot. We were not alone thou, more and more locals and tourists kept coming with their own picnic. I had a great conversation with Michael. He was born in Madagascar, lived in Hong Kong and now resides in Paris and speaks English. :). We talked about the different ways to say hi and bye in Parisian culture a very informative and funny conversation. I tried to learn a little French, at least I can correctly pronounce where I am staying now. Sadly I checked my phone at it was 20:20 I knew I had to leave soon as I had my ticket for the Eiffel tower at 21:00. I reluctanly said goodbye to Matt,Antone, Nicole, Emily, Isabel, Fabien and others. They wished me a good trip and I left. This is one of the highlights of my trip. While awkward at first, that quickly drifted away like the river. As others had just met too, I blended in as one more person looking to meet new people and learn more about others. A truly great time. As I walked away I knew the city had got me, I was in love. But it was not done yet.

I almost left out this out. But is a key part to the night. The metro was packed, I sat down to wait for my train and a group of Spanish speaking guys my age were in the area. One pulled out shot glasses, tequila, limes and salt and began to pour. I was very impressed. I remarked “que loco”. This started a conversation that carried onto the metro. Mateo and I talked for 15 minutes in Spanish. I got to use my foreign language even without going to Spain! The Paris locals did not seem to keen on our loud and my broken Spanish, but we carried on anyways. At one point we drifted into English and then back to Spanish. Muy diverido. And then the stop for the tower came.

It took me a while to leave so I did not get to the metro by the tower until 21:00. I was late and shockingly had to pee. And in another unexpected twist the toilet in the station was closed. I did not want to lose my spot and I knew there were toilets on the tower so I started to do a slight jog. As I rounded the corner I was greeted with a perfect view of the Eiffel tower, framed against the dusk sky and puffy clouds. To my right was a massive gathering of people watching the Brazil soccer game. Music again was playing everywhere, I’ll post some videos soon. Everything from Djs to what looked like Indians. A very fun atmosphere.

I reached the base of the tower and found the entrance for prepaid time slot tickets. There was a line forming, I looked at saw 21:30. I saw an employee and called “madam” she came over,. saw 21:00 and let me in. After getting my brand new corkscrew taken away, he said I could pick it up after, I was in line for the elevator. A very cool ride up. From base to the 2nd level 6 minutes. Buy your pass in advance and show up 10 minutes early or 15 minutes late. I saw the huge lines for walk up sales, yuck. I had choosen this time to go up as I knew the sun would be setting. The weather coperated as the weather cleared up throughout the day and I had an amazing view of the Paris skyline. It was fun walking around and seeing where I had been thoughout the city. The arc was a tad disapointing as it blended in to the buildings around it. Once again the downtown area was the focal point as the sun was setting. Direclty in line was the soccer viewing area. Agrentina scored and the crowd went wild, the roar was loud even on the tower. I asked two guys with Irish accents to confirm who was playing as we were talking a women named Laura joined the conversation. I found out she was from alaksa, once she said that out of reflex she stated. ” yes I have seen Palin and yes I have shook her hand, no I did not vote for her.” I think she might get that question every once in awhile. While i found the info funny I was not planning on asking as I’m sure alaskans are sick of all the hype.

Yet again as the daylight faded the city grew in it’s charm. Now it was time to go up. I told Laura I was heading up and she asked if she could join, of course I said yes. We were having a very good convo and today seemed to be the meet new people day. As we got in line for the top i heard “Paul!” by now I should not be shocked that in a city of three million i can still manage to run into Cory and Taylor by accident( same guys that flew into London the same day and picked the same hostel as me without us talking) but for me at least I found the odds low and the encounter cool. There next stop is Spain and mine Switzerland so if I see them again I may spend the rest of my cash on lotto tickets.

When we got to the top the lights of the city were coming on. Now the arc looked magnificent with the lights and higher angle you can see the streets running towards it’s famous round about. Flashes from people on top of it taking photos were vi sable. I got a photo with Cory and Taylor and then they disappeared, maybe i’ll see them while I’m getting gellato in Italy.

Another roar from another score. I was impressed the crowd was loud enough to reach the top of the tower. Even louder was the concert from the law in front of the tower at the fsr end their was a concert yet it was audible on the tower. Sitting front row must have been deafing.

The search lights from the top of the tower were icing on a already spectacular view. My hunch about going up at night was right, amazing. Laura and I continued around the tower, learned about her MBA program and she heard my my 3 week adventure. The riverboats and bridges with the lights reflecting off the water created a(I’m running out of adjectives for this epic day) dazzling scene. I had worried I was building up this night too much. But my expectations clearly were exceeded. I took some more photos of the arc, which makes me want a mini tripod even more I’m trying to find
one, with a long shutter. I can’t wait to be able to post them. I was on the tower for the 11 o clock light show so wanted to make the 12. I headed down the tower with Laura.

It is quite ironic that after all the effort of getting we had to wait in a longer line to go down. Lots of people trying to cut I often had to make myself big to stop it. Laura had taken the stairs up and wanted to take them down. You can climb to the second level, but mist take a lift to the top. The line was longer on the second level then the one from the top. So walking down not only seemed fun but faster. As we flew down the steps, I did not regret taking the lift. Maybe someday I’ll climb but after St.Pauls, the arc and walking everywhere I did not mind passing on the way up.

We got to the bottom with 6 minutes until the show. I tried to retrieve my opener but the entrance had since closed. The crowd at the base has only grown. I wanted to be as far from the tower as I could get before the show started so a weaving through the crowd began. It was hard to discern who was drunk and bumping into you and who was trying to sell something. As we passed though one large group a young man stepped into my way and starred me down. His friend pulled him away and we continued walking. After crossing some streets I looked up to see the view, we were far enough away, and the show started.

Magnificent.

A giant steel sparkler that doesn’t go out. As the show concluded and my neck began to hurt the lights flashing got even faster. If you have not seen the show before go find a video on YouTube and you’ll have one more reason to go to Paris.

As it was getting late we headed towards the metro stop. The way there gives a great view of the tower. I snapped some more photos. The amount of people present was crazy and music was coming from every direction. As we got to the top, the cafes surrounding the circle were packed and there were bands of people everywhere. Chaos.

We continued talking about Paris and the sights and even how great the museum pass is, while people watching
and listening to drums and a random horn. We looked up our routes home and saw we could take the same station me on one line her on another.

We walked into the station only to find an imposing metal gate. I started to check the bus lines while she suggested we try another metro. After crossing the street, there were people pouring out of a metro station. It is still running, yes! However there was also a group of loud, some singing people trying to down. After maneuvering around them their obstacle appeared, 7 French policeman only letting people exit. I asked if we could enter but they said thou. I think they had a issue with too much craziness at the closest stops. They pointed down the street more and said that stop was open. Walking away i spotted an officer holding what looked like a fire extinguishers, I’m pretty sure it was tear gas. I doubt they had to use it, but still interesting that they had it ready. The next metro stop was open, the energy did not stop as we went down the stairs. There were two cops on the street side of the turnstiles and 4-6 on the train side. What there mission was is unclear to me as I watched six people use one ticket and a stream of people hopping over the turnstile. Laura and I said goodbye as we headed for different lines.

After I boarded my train i felt bad about not even offering to escort Laura back. I felt even worse after my train blew past five stops, they were running on reduced service, I prayed her line stopped where she needed it and got home safely. Surprisingly my train was calm.

I got off my stop at about 1:00. I am staying in Monmarte which has the sacre-coure, which the steps below it offer a stunning free view of the city. I had heard lots of people go up there and thought I might check it out.

Lot of stairs to climb but I knew it would be worth it. As I approached the top the noise grew and despite the stream of people going down as I was coming up the place was packed. The huge steps were filled by people just standing. I bought a beer from a street vendor climbed to the gates of the church and sat down. What a view! I could see the area where I am staying unfold before my eyes. A glowing Norde-dame shone in the distance. I quickly joined in a conversation and met some new people. The story they told of a international friendship with visits by both made me regret not getting peoples information from earlier. O well I’m convinced Michael will be famous someday anyway.

While I was enjoying the view, people and music it was quickly time to leave as the hostel locks it door at 2:00. I walked down through all the broken beer bottles, glad i don’t have to clean that up tomorrow, and headed to the hostel.

Of course my British friends were having food and a drink inside. I met emily’s other two friends and we talked about the day and the night. They laughed when I told them about thinking I was going to get to make them sing. They told me more about their job as hosting for a military convention and we made some grenade and tank jokes. Emily and i talked for a bit. I really like the British wit and humor. Highly entertaining. It did not hurt that she is just a nice person as well. Again while the coversation was great it had to end. We were both tired and the lounge area was closing for the night. I did not repeat my mistake thou, I got Emily’s email. We said goodnight and joked that most likely we would see each other the next night.

And with that this epic day is over. A little past two i climbed into my top bunk, put my earplugs in ( thanks mom) the nice guy from Singapore snores like a jackhammer, and quickly fell asleep on my sagging yet comfortable bed.

A day of specstular sights, entertaining music, history and meeting great people. I love Paris!

Is this a dream?

Paul

*sorry if there are spelling errors, it is sunny and my iPhone is small*

When I woke up this morning I had one thing planned, the Louvre. Beyond that I had no clue what would happen today. I started to plan my route and my trusty Rick Steves book recomeneded I get a museum pass so I made a slight detour and then was at the Louvre. I was there by 9:45 and there was no line for the pass entrance. I started my audio guide and began to explore. One problem, where the podcast said to start was closed after wandering around I got back on track and was enjoying the info while viewing and then no more sound. It did not download all the way this morning at the hostel, oops. I was enjoying the paintings by themselves, but also wanted the history so after a coffee break I went to get a museum audio guide, what an adventure that was.

I asked the women if there was a discount for students, being under 26 or the museum pass. She said “no, but you don’t need to pay if your under 26.” I quickly became worrried that I had just wasted 50 euro on a pass I did not need. She then said I did not look under 26. She took my ID for the guide and as I was asking her more about things being free her coworker overheard and saw my Oregon lisence and gave her a weird face. She quickly realized her mistake museums are only free for EU citzens under 26. We laughed, I calmed down and I walked in with my Audio guide. I quickly realized only one ear worked. I returned and she really felt bad and quickly gave me a new one. I enjoyed the audio guide more than tour as I could just wander and then find out info about whatever I was in front of.

I could go on for hours about the Lovre, just go it really is amazing to see all this art from all over the world and time periods in one magnificant building.

Crowds really build up in the Italain painting area by the Mona Lisa, not shocking. However in the French painting area where there are also great works it is a much more enjoyable enviorment. Tour groups are everywhere. I love the flags, sticks and umbrella’s they hold to keep their group together. Some now have personal sound systems and give the members headphones to wear. A pretty good idea. I had to remind myself to not
worry about getting in their way. I paid to get in too.

The highlights for me were the Itialian and French paintings. And all of them that were huge! 30 ft across, I just can’t believe how big they are. After I burned out of the louvre it was time for lunch and than Orsay.

While the London pass was a wash, if you come to Paris get the museum pass! Again get the pass! Not only will it pay off but getting to cut it the long lines is worth it’s weight it gold. At Orsay I waited in a line 1/3 as long as the line for people with no tickets. Get the pass.

Orsay was great it is smaller so less overwhellming and no mobs of tour groups everwhere! I loved some of the painting on a few I got close enough to admire the individual brush strokes, amazing how these artists create such grand things from a series of small actions. I was having such a good time that I closed it down, closes at 4. I really was the last one to get kicked out of the gallerys though.

I walked towards the obelisk in the place de concorde and just sat there people watching and planning for the evening and tomorrow. The Arc de Triomphe was open until 10 so I began walking that way. A now repeating theme of my trip I had to pee with no where to go. After checking at the adidas and gap I began to focus on cafes. I walked down a side alley and ordered in cafe and used the toilet.

The arc is incrediable the tumb of the unknown had just been lit what a solum reminder of the cost of freeing Europe from out of control evil. Thank you to everyone who serves or has served!

I quickly started climbing, did not have to buy a ticket thanks to the pass. The view from up top was great. I enjoyed seeing the city layed out before my eyes. See my photo on facebook for the cool trick the sky was doing. I also used a viewing thing to look at the people on top of the Effiel tower. I wanted to wait til dark but did not want to wait the hour that would require. So down I went.

Then I headed for the hostel and found
a local bar to watch world cup. The place exploded when Brazil scored, both times that I was therefore. The bartender was a big Brazil fan and got so excited he forgot to charge me for a
beer.

Back to the hostel. Met two girls from Englad who told me tomorrow would be an amazing day. “mental” as they said, Paris has a music festivel on the first day of summer. They kept hyping it up and I told them if I don’t see any bands
tomorrrow I would make them sing the next night. They laughed and assureded me I would have a good time. Now It is time for bed and we will see what tomorrow brings.

A great first day in Paris!

Sorry if these are long, it has turned into a journal of sorts for me.

Enjoying Paris,
Paul

What a great day! I should be in bed but I want to wrote some of this down before I go to sleep. I started the day at St.Paul’s the inside is amazing beautiful and ornate. They don’t allow pictures inside, do yourself a favor and do a google image search and enjoy. I did the hike up to the whispering gallery. This gives you a great view of the dome and the lower church. Worth every stair. I continued up the winding and very very narrow stairs to the golden gallery and the top one. Both with breathtaking views of the city. It was fitting to do this on my last day in London as I could see where I had gone the last two days.

I walked back down the 250+ stairs and then sat down and prayed for a bit. Since I’ve since left the country I feels it’s safe to reveal that I took a few photos. I could not help myself!

Next it was over the river on the milenium bridge for a tour of the Globe. I had a very entertaining guide and a very informative tour. This is the third globe that has been built. It is a very cool theater and kept thinking I really need to come back and see a show here. As the tour wrapped up we got to see the actors warming up for their 2pm show. I walked by the box office and noticed it did not say sold out, I was able to get a standing (groundlings) ticket for only 5 pounds! Score. Lunch, then show time.

I got there 10 minutes before the start of Henry the VIII but was still able to get 1 person away from the front of stage. Such a good view. I could tell it was going to be good. But I was still blown away by the performance. If you are ever in London and like theater at all, go see a show at the globe! It’s only 5 pounds. During the show the actors would leave the stage into the audience and would also come though the normal doors and push through the crowd onto the stage. At one point an actor was delivering a line while standing one person away from me. A great experience. I had to leave at intermission to see the cabinet war rooms before I caught my train to Paris. I will be back thou! A great unexpected event. I would recomend skipping the tour and just look around while you see a show!

The war rooms were very cool. Some rooms have not been touched since the war ended and those that were have since been restored. Seeing where Churchill met to dicuss strategy brought whole new life to history chanel WW2 shows. The map room looked straight out of a WW2 movie, but more real. Hmm. A great and informative tour, glad I found the time to do it. Cool walking the same hallways as the men and women who helped win the war.

Then it was off to Paris. But first called my parents from a payphone to let them listen to Big Ben chime. I ran out of time to get to platform 9 3/4, sadly, next time. I was shocked and disapointed that I had to go through security before getting on the train but at least I got one more passport stamp out of it!

The train ride went by very quick. I met a guy named Eric in the diner car who is from Paris but now lives in London. We chated for the better part of an hour and the a girl joined our converststion. Her and I had a very interesting convo as she has the unique viewpoint of have lived in the US, UK and Paris. In no time we were in Paris. Made my way to the metro and was on my way.

The metro is much dirter than the underground, felt more like the NYC subway. At my stop leaving the station looked like a scene out of westside story. Two guys with their hair slicked back, pulled open the exit gate and strolled through as other youths were just hoping the turnstiles. After getting a little turned around I found my hostel. The area of town I am in seems to have a decent night life. This hostel is not as nice but has free wifi so all things considered I am happy. Sorry if this has been long but it was a busy day! Louvre tomorrow. Bed now.

1 city down,

Paul

Woke up this morning after a great nights sleep to the sound of a busy road near the hostel. Got a weak but filling breakfast and was out the door. Gone was the beautiful sun and in were the clouds.

First stop was piccadilly circus, somehow I managed not to see it during my whirlwind adventure yesterday. I now realize that I stumpled upon leicester square during my circles yesterday. I bought the London pass, we will see if it pays off. My route today was a little odd but I had a fun time.

First up was the British museum. Amazing to see and touch (don’t tell anyone) art that dates back to 600 even 1500 bc. The artwork that the Egyptians, Assyrians and Romans created is amazing. They also have an exhibit on the history of clocks. It connected two more normal exhibits but was fasinacing. I did not know that the pendegulm was the breakthrough that made clocks more accurate.

Then it was off to the Tower of London. What a beautiful building. I still am having trouble getting my head aroud that it is over 500 years old. Even weirder to ponder that people lived and were killed within it’s walls. The crown jewels were stunning. I thought to myself, I have never seen such s big diamond and then read ” this is the largest diamond of perfect clarity in the world.” The vault doors made me laugh, as while they are quite large, what is the point if you just let everyone in. I hopped on end of a tour by a beefeater. I’m glad I did not do the whole thing, he was funny but talked a bit too much.

This is where my day gets weird. There was an hour and a half until St.Paul’s churh closed, or so I thought. I rushed to get there with an hour left and 1 minute before the last admission only to be told that they close in 30 minutes. I already thought St. Pauls in an hour was too short so I bailed.

I had no plan so I sat down to look at my map and saw that the millennium bridge was near by and decided I should cross it. I remembered the globe was near by and went to check it out. They were sold of shows for tonight and tomorrow but I did find out I can tour tomorrow until 1230. I walked back and realized I needed to pee. The worst part about a big city is having no where to pee. I must have been in the business district because everywhere I looked there were men in suits. After a fruitless search I found a sign for a public toliet. After a block and a half I got there and it was closed. Ugh. After more searching I found a pub and walked straight to their bathroom. Whew. Now it had started to rain so i headed for the hostel. I was impressed by how many londoners were reading the paper, until I saw the price, free. Victoria station was a madhouse at 6 for the evening rush. So many people all trying to go differnt ways.

I asked man downstairs at the bostel where a good pub was for watching the England match. He said “St. Georges tavern.” after walking much longer than he made it sound and passing two bars with multiple tvs but few people, I found it. Lots of people in a small space with one nice tv. I ordered a
Beer and fish and chips and watched the game. I was suprised how little attetiom people had for the game, lots of side talk and wandering eyes. Yet anytime the ball got close to algeria’s goal the room got quieter and when they missed let out a collective groan.

Met a girl during half time works for an consting firm in DC and he is here for training. Nice girl/woman. With about 15 minutes left in the game and still scoreless the noise in the pub died down and I could feel the tension building. The groans grew louder each time england came close to scoring. The eventual tie at 0 was dispointing, to me as I did not get to see anyone go crazy over a score. And to the locals as they expected a much better showing.

Whew I am quite tired again. Tomorrow is cabinet war museum, St. Pauls and the globe. Leave for Paris at 7pm.

Lanuague Barrier here I come,

Paul

The flight into London was quite nice. I did not realize how green it would be. Very pretty. Clearing customs was a breeze. Found my way to the underground I bought an later card, already saved me the trouble of buying tickets each time.

Got on the Tube and quickly hit goal 1 of the trip met a girl from australia. She is moving here, crazy. Made my transfer, tube kicks the NYC subways butt!

Made it to my hostel after taking the long way, stored my luggage and was on my way. It was only 10 so I decided to get some breakfast and then watch the changing of the guard and buckingham palace.

Made it there. Both goals met in under 3 hours. If only college was that easy. It was packed was clue to see them march in and switch places to music, however it went a bit long. After this I decided to do a hop on off bus tour cause I was already tired and wanted to get a feel for the city.

I’m laying in my hostel bed, which, is surpisngly comfy and losing the will to keep going.

Love the charm of the city.
Got lost, ended up going a circle but enjoyed all I saw.
Big ben is cool in person.
Met a guy named Elvis.
All the old buildings are really cool!
Portland should use double decker buzzes like London does for normal busses.
I don’t like pounds.
Tea and a salmon and cream cheese bagel was a great choice.
I am so excited this is only day one.

Loving London,
Paul